The Landscapes and Corners of the Oldest Pilgrimage to Santiago

It all began in the early years of the 9th century when Bishop Teodomiro, responsible for the diocese of Iria Flavia in the far west of the emerging Asturian kingdom, brought King Alfonso II the news that a hermit, after seeing strange lights, had discovered what all indications suggest are the remains of the Apostle James.

Upon receiving such news, the king quickly prepared to see it with his own eyes, initiating the first pilgrimage in history to Santiago and building a temple. Thus, Oviedo would become the first starting point for the pilgrimage to the tomb of the apostle. Soon the news would spread to other kingdoms of Christendom, and new paths would penetrate towards the lands of the Franks and the western part of Christian Europe.

Probably the Primitive Way, with its 321 km, has best preserved the essence of this ancient pilgrimage and what the journey must have been like in other times: paths that weave through damp forests of oaks and chestnuts, landscapes and hamlets frozen in time, monasteries, and small hermitages nestled along the way.

Today, Oviedo, the starting point of the Primitive Way, has become a mecca for pilgrims. This is a city to be savored slowly, as it holds numerous wonders. From the time of Alfonso II, one of the best-preserved buildings in Europe remains: San Julián de los Prados, a church with unique Pompeian decorative paintings in the world.

On Mount Naranco rise two more emblematic buildings, in this case constructed during the reign of Ramiro I. They are the pre-Romanesque church of San Miguel de Lillo and the nearby palace of Santa María, one of the few remaining examples of such civic buildings. And we must not forget its beautiful Gothic cathedral, the nerve center for every pilgrim, which houses important pre-Romanesque remnants, such as the Cámara Santa and relics, including the one that has become the symbol of Asturias: The Cross of Victory.

The itinerary of the path that began in the Early Middle Ages followed ancient Roman communication roads, as evidenced by the abundant archaeological remains from that era. At the height of Premoño, for example, it is worth diverting to the Valduno baths from the 2nd century.

The construction of the medieval Peñaflor bridge was essential to cross the Nalón River and reach Grado, which was granted a foundational charter in the mid-13th century by Alfonso X and grew as a result of the Camino. Grado now enjoys a new pilgrim hostel and numerous buildings of great architectural value, such as the palace of Valdecarzana, that of the Marquesa de Fontela, or the many houses of immigrants who returned enriched from 19th-century America. They line along the main avenue through which the pilgrim advances.

We head towards Alto del Fresno, descending to the Narcea River to cross it and enter Cornellana/Curniana, where the magnificent monastery of San Salvador, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in 1024, is located and stands as a privileged witness to a disputed and fertile territory. It is also a hostel for pilgrims today.

Following the Nonaya River, we arrive in Salas. The historical-artistic heritage of this important crossroads of paths is of the first order. It features a defensive tower (14th century) associated with the pacification of that territory. It is joined by the Valdés-Salas palace (12th century), all connected by an arch that respects the passage of the Jacobean route. At the San Martín museum, the remains of a pre-Romanesque church much older (9th-10th centuries) can be found. From there, we head towards the Alto de La Espina, but first, we must stock up on carajitos from the professor, delicious and energetic pastries made from hazelnuts, sugar, and egg whites.

From Salas, one must ascend 420 m of elevation through wooded areas. Once at the top, the magnificent views of the Tineo region more than compensate for the effort. We are in a vaqueira area, of transhumant herders, and as we advance, we pass by large houses, water mills, crosses, and hermitages.

Tineo/Tineu boasts interesting buildings in its old town, such as the church of San Pedro (13th century), part of the old Franciscan convent that houses the interesting Sacred Art museum, or the late medieval tower of the Garcia de Tineo Palace. However, the jewel of the region lies somewhat north of the path.

In a landscape between forests, we descend to the monastery of Santa María la Real de Obona. This is an unmissable visit for pilgrims, as lodging there was mandatory by royal disposition of Alfonso IX; this and other privileges towards pilgrims allowed the monastery to amass great wealth. We must backtrack a short distance crossing the Obona stream and ascend to the village of Villaluz. Before leaving, it is customary to try the chosco de Tineo, a flavorful cured and smoked pork sausage.

We are in the heart of western Asturias, a land of mists, legends, and ancestral traditions. As we traverse through mountains and forests, we advance through a landscape of mid-mountain, occasionally crossing a lonely village or hamlet. After Alto de Lavadoira (810 m), the limit with the council of Allande, we descend among beech and birch trees to its capital, Pola/La Puela, dominated by the impressive Cienfuegos Palace, built between the 14th and 16th centuries.

Now acquainted with this rugged yet beautiful land, with its continuous ups and downs, the Puerto del Palo (1147 m) does not intimidate us. It requires a continuous but gradual ascent through a landscape of vast dimensions. Mountain after mountain and valley after valley fade into the distance, filling everything with a sense of intimate peace. After the pass, we cross the village of Montefurado, a name derived from the ancient gold extractions the Romans carried out in these mountains.

After Berducedo, La Mesa, and the large Salime reservoir, we arrive at Grandas. Here we cannot miss its exceptional ethnographic museum. It is like taking a trip to the immediate past, yet surprisingly distant.

The mountainous Asturian lands are already reaching their end, and after the Alto del Acebo (1100 m), we enter a gentler and smoother territory, dotted with small agricultural and livestock enterprises. Fonfría, Paradonova, and A Fonsagrada greet the weary pilgrim who has taken many steps and is getting closer to Santiago.

A Fonsagrada welcomes us with the fonte sacra, which gives the town its name, located behind the apse of the church of Santa María. The current structure dates back to 1882. Its title as a sacred fountain comes from various legends surrounding it, such as one claiming that it once flowed with milk, or that after helping a holy pilgrim, it performed a miracle by making water spring from a rock. The earthly counterpart is the butelo, a sausage made from pork. The great waterfall of Vilagocende is located nearby.

After crossing a hilltop, we enter the Lugo plateau, which leads us to the ancient Lucus Augusta, the largest city on the route from Oviedo. Lugo is a hidden treasure, unknown to the general public despite its many attractions. The first thing that stands out is the impeccable Roman wall, a testament to its undeniable origins, which we can also observe in the baths or the Roman bridge.

But Lucus Augusta reinvented itself after the fall of the Empire with new energies. In the medieval period, it became a center of great importance, significantly impacting the Primitive Way. An example of this is its monumental cathedral erected in the 8th century, possibly on a Roman structure. Although the building we visit is a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles, its current façade was raised in the 18th century under neoclassical aesthetics.

However, Lugo is not just about art and history. To recharge and soak up the flavors and aromas of the city, nothing better than enjoying a tapa and a glass of wine from the Ribeira Sacra in the crowded narrow streets of the old town.

Although it is difficult, we must leave Lugo by taking the ancient Roman road that connected it with Iria Flavia. Today, like so many Roman roads, the slabs have been covered by asphalt, but it is possible to imagine Roman citizens and soldiers or later pilgrims and traders moving through these lands.

We are in the valley of the Mera River, in the heart of rural Galicia, enjoying beautiful buildings linked to the Primitive Way, such as the church of San Vicente do Burgo, which was a hospital for pilgrims and is a beautiful example of Galician Baroque, or the small church of San Miguel in Bacurín, an excellent model of rural Romanesque architecture whose front features a typical walled pazo.

We now penetrate into the Ulloa region, an inspiration for the famous novel by Emilia Pardo Bazán Los Pazos de Ulloa. More specifically, the surroundings of Palas de Rey provided the backdrop for this extraordinary work that unfolds in the profound Galicia of the 19th century. Also, López Ferreiro and Álvaro Cunqueiro looked to this municipality to write some of their best novels.

We are approaching Melide, where the Primitive Way connects with the French Way, like two rivers seeking their confluence in Santiago de Compostela. Pilgrims from all over the world pass through this polyglot crossroad.

The bustling activity contrasts with the solitude and silence to which we had become accustomed, a constant of the Primitive Way. However, now we can enjoy more company and the experiences that other pilgrims bring from the Castilian lands. A little further on, in Arzúa, we will connect with another of the Jacobean routes, in this case, the Galician Coast path, which offers different visions, experiences, and emotions from the Jacobean route.

Although the aroma of Santiago de Compostela can already be sensed, just 39 km away, there remains one last effort. The path is becoming increasingly filled with symbolism: scallop shells, crosses, and images of the Apostle appear as we approach Monte do Gozo, from where our gaze will first settle thoughtfully on the horizon, for there lies Santiago de Compostela, the journey's end. However, there is no need for sadness because the goal is not Santiago itself, but the journey along the Camino.