The Most Beautiful Town to Visit in May is in Murcia

The crowd parts like a human zipper, reminiscent of the ports of the Tour de France, but instead of cyclists, they let the Wine Horses pass, galloping dressed in finery, led by members of the horse associations that run alongside them. They take them to the fortress-basilica of Vera Cruz, trying to recreate a famous legend set during the Reconquista. It is said that, during a siege by the Muslims on the castle, the water tanks became contaminated. A group of Templar knights set out to find water, but since they couldn't obtain it, they loaded wine and galloped back to the castle, spectacularly dodging the enemy. When they poured the wine into the tanks, the water miraculously purged and the sick were cured by drinking it. This race, attracting about one hundred thousand visitors annually, is just the beginning of the festivities.

No matter where you come from, the eyes are immediately drawn to the basilica which, with features of a Templar fortress, crowns the Murcian town of Caravaca de la Cruz. Moreover, if you arrive from the capital, the mountains in the northeast of the province frame it beautifully. This town, located about 45 minutes west of the city of Murcia, is nearly half mountainous. The prominent hill on which the basilica stands is the origin of joys and sorrows in its history: an Islamic fortress was built upon it around the 12th and 13th centuries, which, in the 1230s, passed into Christian hands to become a border point between Al-Ándalus and the Crown of Castile.

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The complete walled enclosure is still preserved, with its fourteen towers, which were expanded and reinforced after the Castilian conquest, first by the Order of the Knights Templar, and then by the Order of Santiago. After the Christian occupation, a small sanctuary with a lignum crucis was immediately constructed, which began attracting thousands of pilgrims. However, the current Baroque basilica did not begin construction until 1617, with work concluding in 1703.

Its most characteristic piece is the facade of jasper marble, while the most coveted is the Cross of Caravaca, a relic of the cross on which Christ was crucified, which arrived here in a miraculous way: while the city was disputed by Moors and Christians, a priest dangerously ventured into Muslim territory to preach the Gospel, and while he said mass before the ruler Zayd Abu Zayd, two angels placed the cross on the altar, converting the "infidel."

Since the 13th century, pilgrims from all over the world have come to kneel before the Cross of Caravaca. There are eight distinct pilgrimage routes leading to this Murcian town, with the most famous being the Camino de la Vera Cruz, which comes from Roncesvalles covering 900 km. Therefore, by the end of the last century, Caravaca de la Cruz became the fifth perpetual jubilee city in the world, meaning it joined the elite group of towns that can celebrate jubilee years periodically and in perpetuity, something that only happens with such notable places as Rome, Jerusalem, or Santiago de Compostela.

During the first days of May, in remembrance of the appearance of the relic of the cross, Caravaca celebrates the festivals of the Most Holy and Vera Cruz, declared Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. Here, however, festivities of Moors and Christians blend with other rites likely rooted in ancient traditions, where the famous Wine Horses take much of the spotlight.

Everything kicks off at sunset on April 30, when people take to the streets of the old town and start cooking a competitive dish called migas: it's the Southeast Migas Contest. The next day, the famous horse races serve as the definitive starting signal for the celebrations. In the afternoon of May 1, the Natural Horse Contest is held, an event that is a cross between a parade and a dress rehearsal before the race the following day, where the horses that look best naturally are voted on.

On the morning of May 2, the Wine Horses Race is held, in which the horses, now adorned, run as fast as possible because the fastest one wins. Finally, the winning group of the Dressing Contest is announced, that is, the one awarded for having crafted the most spectacular mantle for their horse.

Although the Wine Horses overshadow almost everything, the main day is that of the Most Holy Cross, May 3. In the morning, a pontifical mass is celebrated in the Church of El Salvador, and in the afternoon, the Cross of Caravaca is paraded to "the Templet," or the Bathhouse of Caravaca de la Cruz, where the Washing of the Cross is performed to appease plagues and droughts. Along the way, the legendary Parliament between Zayd Abu Zayd and the priest is reenacted. On the 4th, the highlight is the grand parade of Moors and Christians, and the following day the celebrations conclude with the procession that returns the cross to the basilica.

The Church of El Salvador is, paradoxically, the epicenter of the festivities of the Most Holy and Vera Cruz and is considered a masterpiece of Murcian Renaissance; built starting in 1526, it is well worth stepping inside to take a look at its altarpiece. Nearby is the House-Museum of the Wine Horses, featuring an exhibition focused on the mantles adorning the horses. Close by, the Municipal Archaeological Museum also stands, housed in the ancient Church of La Soledad.

Just outside the old town, the huge red-brown Neo-Mudéjar facade of the 19th century bullring catches the eye, resembling a giant refrigerator magnet. And for those wanting a green breather and, in the process, delve into the Muslim roots of the city, they can take a stroll to the Fountains of the Marquis, a natural setting with several springs of crystal-clear water, artificial caves from the Islamic period, a botanical trail, and the Templar Tower as an interpretation center.